Cabinet Installation Invoice Template — Free Download (2026)
Cabinet installation invoices fail when the line items say "install cabinets" and the scope later becomes a point of dispute — who was responsible for leveling, who supplies the hardware, what happens if the countertop measurement is off because the base cabinets aren't level. A detailed cabinet invoice that documents the manufacturer and product line, construction type, box count by type, hardware included or excluded, trim scope (crown, light rail, toe kick), and what's not included (counters, appliances, plumbing rough-in) removes the ambiguity that drives these disputes. This guide covers what to include on a cabinet installation invoice for kitchen, bathroom, laundry, and built-in projects.
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Manufacturer, product line, construction type, and finish
The cabinet specification is the core of any cabinet installation invoice. 'Cabinets: KraftMaid Vantage Series, full-access (frameless) construction, 3/4" plywood box, dovetail drawer box, Birch Maple Cream finish (KraftMaid finish code: W21-01). Door style: Breckenridge Square. Soft-close hinges: Blum BLUMOTION included factory-installed. Soft-close drawer slides: Blum TANDEM plus BLUMOTION included. All cabinets are assembled — no flat-pack assembly by installer.' Include the order confirmation number or quote number from the cabinet supplier so the homeowner has a clear reference point. For stock or semi-custom cabinets: include the SKU or model number for each box type so the homeowner can verify what was ordered matches what was installed.
Box count by type: base, wall, tall, and specialty
List each cabinet type separately rather than giving a total box count. 'Base cabinets: (7) total — (2) B30 base 30" standard, (1) B36 base 36" standard, (1) BC36 blind corner base 36", (1) B18-2DRW base 18" 2-drawer, (1) B24-4DRW base 24" 4-drawer, (1) BSINK36 sink base 36". Wall cabinets: (8) total — (4) W3036 wall 30"H × 36"W, (2) W3024 wall 30"H × 24"W, (1) WBC2736 blind corner wall 27"H, (1) WD2430 wall with door 24"H × 30"W. Tall cabinets: (1) T2490 utility tall 24" × 90". Total: 16 boxes.' A box-by-box list makes final measurement verification possible and is essential if a wrong-size box arrives — both parties can identify the issue against the invoice without pulling the order paperwork.
Hardware: pulls, knobs, and what's included vs. owner-supplied
Hardware scope is one of the most common sources of cabinet invoice disputes — installers assume the homeowner supplies pulls and knobs, homeowners assume hardware is included. Be explicit. 'Hardware: owner-supplied. Homeowner provides all door pulls and drawer knobs. Installer provides mounting screws. Installer drills pull/knob holes at [locations specified in design plan] before delivery.' Or: 'Hardware: contractor-supplied. Door pulls: Atlas Homewares A908-BRN, 5" center-to-center, brushed nickel, 22 units. Drawer knobs: Atlas A-116-BN, 1.25" knob, 14 units. Included in price.' If the homeowner is supplying hardware, note that installation timing may be affected if hardware hasn't arrived by install date.
Trim: crown molding, light rail, toe kick, and filler strips
'Trim scope: Crown molding — 2.75" KraftMaid crown, Birch Maple Cream, applied at top of all wall cabinets including inside corners. Total LF: 42. Light rail molding — 1.5" light rail at base of wall cabinets, all runs above cooktop and sink base. Total LF: 36. Toe kick — matching cabinet finish, cut to length and applied at base of all base cabinets. Total LF: 28. Filler strips — (2) 3" fillers at refrigerator wall and window side of cabinet run. Scribing to walls included. Scribe molding at all wall contacts — color-matched.' Trim is often priced per linear foot or as a lump sum. Make it a separate line item — homeowners don't realize trim is a significant labor add.
What's NOT included: counters, plumbing, appliances, electrical
'Not included in this invoice: countertop supply and installation (requires separate countertop contractor after cabinet installation is complete and verified level). Plumbing rough-in, shut-off valve installation, or drain reconnection after countertop installation. Appliance delivery or installation. Under-cabinet lighting wiring (rough-in by electrician required — electrical not in scope). Range hood installation. Backsplash. Painting or staining of job-site modifications.' This list protects you from scope creep and manages expectations. Every item that is explicitly excluded is one fewer dispute after the job is complete.
Level and plumb tolerance — and what happens if walls aren't level
'Cabinets will be installed level and plumb to within 1/8" over 8 ft. Shims will be used at base cabinet toe kick and concealed behind wall cabinets to achieve level installation on walls/floors that are out of level. Note: countertop templating should occur no sooner than 48 hours after cabinet installation is complete to allow any settling. Countertop contractor should verify cabinet level before templating — installer not responsible for countertop measurement errors attributable to re-leveling after our installation is signed off.' If the walls are significantly out of plumb, document it before you start: photograph the level reading, note the deviation in the invoice, and get written authorization to proceed.
Cabinet installation invoice example
Kitchen remodel — 16 boxes, KraftMaid frameless, full crown and toe kick
INVOICE #CI-2026-0093
Premier Cabinet Install LLC | (513) 555-0148 | Customer: D. & S. Park | 7712 Holloway Ln., Mason, OH | Service: June 11–12, 2026 | Kitchen cabinet installation
| Item | Qty | Unit | Total |
|---|---|---|---|
| Cabinet installation — 7 base cabinets, 8 wall cabinets, 1 utility tall. KraftMaid Vantage (frameless), plywood box, soft-close hinges/slides factory-installed. Level and plumb to within 1/8" per 8 ft. Shimmed at toe kick and wall blocks. | 16 | boxes @ $125 | $2,000 |
| Crown molding — 2.75" KraftMaid crown, Birch Maple Cream. Applied at tops of all wall cabinets. Cut inside and outside corners. Coped joints at wall contacts. | 42 | LF @ $14 | $588 |
| Light rail molding — 1.5" KraftMaid light rail at base of wall cabinets (cooktop and sink runs). Cut and fitted, color-matched. | 36 | LF @ $12 | $432 |
| Toe kick — matching finish, cut to length, applied full run of base cabinets. End caps at exposed sides. | 28 | LF @ $10 | $280 |
| Filler strips — (2) 3" fillers. Scribed to wall at refrigerator opening and window side. Color-matched scribe molding at all wall contacts. | 1 | LS @ $180 | $180 |
| Hardware drilling — owner-supplied pulls and knobs. Installer drills at standard 2" from corner per design plan. Pulls: 22 doors, knobs: 14 drawers. | 36 | holes @ $4 | $144 |
| Deposit paid June 9, 2026 | −$1,812 | ||
| Balance due on completion | $1,812 | ||
5 invoicing rules for cabinet installers
List every exclusion explicitly — especially counters and plumbing
The most common cabinet installation billing dispute isn't about cabinet installation — it's about what came after. The homeowner thought the countertop, plumbing reconnect, or appliance install was included. List every exclusion as its own line: countertop supply and install, plumbing rough-in, drain reconnection, electrical, appliances, backsplash, painting. 'Not included' line items are as important as the items you're billing for. One sentence per exclusion saves one phone call later.
Charge hardware drilling as a separate line item
Hardware drilling is tedious, time-consuming, and varies enormously based on door and drawer count. If you include it in a lump-sum installation price, you're absorbing a cost that homeowners don't see. Drill it out separately — '$4 per hole, 36 holes' is immediately understandable and sets the expectation that it's work. Also clarifies who supplies the hardware: owner-supplied means they need to have it ready before install day, or you note the schedule impact.
Document cabinet level tolerance and the countertop templating wait
Countertop templating errors are the most expensive downstream consequence of unlevel cabinets — and they happen when the countertop contractor shows up the next day and the cabinets have settled, or the homeowner assumes the cabinets are ready and books the template appointment immediately. Put it in writing: 'Countertop templating: minimum 48 hours after installation sign-off. Countertop contractor to verify level before templating — this installer not responsible for countertop measurement errors after sign-off.' One sentence removes you from a dispute that could cost thousands.
Photograph wall and floor level conditions before installation starts
If the kitchen walls are out of plumb by 1.5" over 8 ft, that matters for filler strip sizing, crown molding fits, and how the finished kitchen looks. Document it before you start. A photo of a level on the wall, a note on the invoice ('walls out of plumb up to 1.25" — shimmed and scribed accordingly'), and verbal confirmation from the homeowner is your defense if the crown molding gaps at the corner and they want it redone. Blame attribution after installation is complete is nearly impossible without pre-install documentation.
Separate installation labor from trim as distinct line items
Installation labor and trim work are priced differently and take different skills. A homeowner who gets a single 'kitchen cabinets: $3,624' line item can't evaluate whether the quote is fair. Breaking out box installation ($2,000), crown ($588), light rail ($432), toe kick ($280), fillers ($180), and hardware drilling ($144) lets them understand what's driving the price and compare apples-to-apples with competing quotes. Detailed invoices win more jobs than lump sum invoices because they show competence.
Frequently asked questions
How much does cabinet installation cost in 2026?↓
Installation-only (cabinets supplied by homeowner or GC): $100–$175 per box for standard base and wall cabinets. Specialty cabinets (lazy Susan, pull-outs, appliance garages): $150–$250 per unit. Trim: crown molding $12–$22/LF, light rail $10–$18/LF, toe kick $8–$14/LF. Hardware drilling (if owner-supplied hardware): $3–$6 per hole. A typical 20-box kitchen installation runs $2,500–$4,000 for labor only, not including the cost of cabinets, countertops, or hardware. Full kitchen cabinet supply-and-install (stock or semi-custom cabinets): $8,000–$25,000+ depending on cabinet brand and kitchen size.
What is the difference between frameless and face-frame cabinets?↓
Face-frame cabinets have a solid wood frame attached to the front of the box — the frame is visible and doors overlay or inset into it. Common in traditional and transitional kitchens. Standard US style. Frameless (full-access) cabinets have no front frame — the door attaches directly to the box side, providing slightly more interior storage access. Common in European and contemporary kitchens. The construction type affects hinge style, drawer slide options, and how fillers work at corners. Both are quality construction at comparable price points — the difference is primarily aesthetic and style-driven.
Who supplies cabinet hardware — the installer or the homeowner?↓
It varies — clarify this in writing before the job. Installer-supplied hardware: the installer orders pulls and knobs to match the design, bills cost plus markup, and installs them on the same day as the cabinets. Homeowner-supplied hardware: homeowner orders and has pulls and knobs on site before install day. If hardware isn't on site, drilling is either skipped (and billed as a return visit) or doors and drawers go undrilled. Hardware disputes are almost always scope misunderstandings — one sentence in the invoice eliminates them.
How long does cabinet installation take?↓
A standard kitchen (15–20 boxes) with an experienced 2-person crew: 1–2 days for installation, plus half a day for crown, light rail, toe kick, and filler trim. Variables that add time: high ceilings requiring taller wall cabinets, complex corner solutions (blind corners, lazy Susans), significant wall-out-of-plumb requiring scribing, and islands. A bathroom vanity (2–4 boxes) takes 2–4 hours. A laundry room (4–6 boxes) takes 4–6 hours.
Do cabinets need to be level even if the floor isn't?↓
Yes — cabinets must be installed level and plumb regardless of floor or wall conditions. An unlevel base cabinet run means unlevel countertops, which means water pools toward the sink or away from the drain. Shims at the toe kick are how installers level base cabinets over uneven floors. The toe kick cover conceals the shims. Properly shimmed and leveled base cabinets don't move — the shims are often glued or secured before the toe kick is applied. Never let a cabinet installer tell you they set cabinets 'following the floor' — that's a workmanship shortcut.
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